On board the Stad Amsterdam yesterday.

On board the Stad Amsterdam yesterday.



The English Rose, a small inn and restaurant, home to Rincon’s best breakfast. I liked the huevos rancheros.

The English Rose, a small inn and restaurant, home to Rincon’s best breakfast. I liked the huevos rancheros.



These new pillows are so popular that this Boston hotel will start selling them for $75 each.

Yesterday we stopped for lunch at Lechonera Rancho T in Lares, the home of Puerto Rico’s 19th-century rally for independence from Spain. As a machete-wielding butcher chopped up an enormous slow-roasted pig, we ordered two pounds of pork, complete with crackling skin the texture of peanut brittle. We added a pastel, the island’s pig-and-olive-stuffed answer to tamales, a house-stuffed morcilla, rice and peas, yucca salad and roasted potato. Not pictured: enough Medalla beer to wash it all down.

Yesterday we stopped for lunch at Lechonera Rancho T in Lares, the home of Puerto Rico’s 19th-century rally for independence from Spain. As a machete-wielding butcher chopped up an enormous slow-roasted pig, we ordered two pounds of pork, complete with crackling skin the texture of peanut brittle. We added a pastel, the island’s pig-and-olive-stuffed answer to tamales, a house-stuffed morcilla, rice and peas, yucca salad and roasted potato. Not pictured: enough Medalla beer to wash it all down.



Arecibo Observatory this afternoon.

Arecibo Observatory this afternoon.



Casa Islena, Rincon.

Casa Islena, Rincon.



Sandy Beach, North Shore, Rincon.

Sandy Beach, North Shore, Rincon.



San Juan airport.

San Juan airport.



My 737 to San Juan.

My 737 to San Juan.



"I met this very elegant older Cuban gentleman who had a good government post who encouraged me to apply for a Cuban visa and said he would hustle the papers through the system. I thought, I don’t know what I’m walking in to but I’ll give it a shot. So I got the visa, and, you know those movies about dumb American girls who walk in to some terrible situation? I thought, Oh my God, I hope I’m not one of them."


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